It was the Spaniard Ynigo Ortiz de Retes who, in 1545, gave the name Nueva Guinea to a strip of land on the north coast of the world's second largest island (after Greenland), which is now half Indonesian, half Papua New Guinean territory. Irian Jaya, the western half of the island, is Indonesia's biggest province of about 410,600 sq. km., representing almost 21 percent of the country's total land area, with a population of about 2 million. More than 75 percent of the land is covered by dense tropical forests. Jayapura, the neat provincial capital on a hillside overlooking the bay, is 3,520 kilometers away from Jakarta. Irian Jaya is a land of exceptional natural grandeur. Its jungles are among the wildest, most impenetrable in the world. It has scenic beaches in abundance as well as immense stretches of marshlands. Cool grassy meadows lie at the foot of the towering mountains. Almost all the rivers have their origin in the Jayawijaya range, cutting through dark forests until their sluggish, crocodile-infested mouths disgorge the water into the sea. There are some beautiful lakes, spread over several regions and varying in size. The coral sea gardens, particularly around the island of Biak, are rated amongst the most beautiful in the world. There are only three tropical regions in the world that have snow: Kilimanjaro (Africa), the Andes (South America) and Irian Jaya with its eternal snow capped mountain ridges, more than 5,000 m high, and spectacular walls plunging hundreds of meters down onto floors filled with small glacier lakes. The highest peak of the central Jayawijaya mountain ranges is Jaya (5,500 m). Second and third highest are Trikora (5,160 m) and Yamin (5,100 m). On the basis of physical features and differences in language, customs, artistic expression and other aspects of culture, the indigenous people of Irian Jaya are distinguished into about 300 sub-groups, although they all belong to the Melanesian race, and are related to the people inhabiting the islands along the southern rim of the Pacific. The Negritos are believed to have settled on the island first, probably some 30,000 years ago, followed by the Melanesians. The people of the central highlands still maintain their ancestral customs and traditions, and are virtually untouched by alien influences. Most of the changes have so far taken place among the coastal people, who are being subjected to ever increasing contacts with the world outside. Although Irian Jaya is famed for its Bird of Paradise, the province's fauna is mostly of the Australian marsupial type. Copper, oil, LNG, timber, fish and shrimps are among the main products.

Asmat People The Asmat people are expert craftsmen and sculptors and their art is famed around the world. They live in a wood culture because all their tools are somehow related to wood. The Asmat people live in the areas of Flamingo Bay and Cook's Bay, on the southwestern coast of Irian Jaya. Modern civilization did not reach this area until recently. Agats has an interesting museum filled with woodcarvings and other objects. The area, however is still largely untamed wilderness. Asmat crafts received a boost in the late 1960's with a project supported by the United Nations to encourage local craftsmen to keep alive their art. Baliem Valley The Baliem Valley, lying in the central part of Irian Jaya, in the Jayawijaya regency, is very well known. The natural beauty is enhanced by the people's faithful adherence to their ancestral customs and traditions. The valley can be reached by plane from Wamena, or on foot, which takes about five hours. Waisaput is a traditional village in this valley, where one can observe the marriage customs of the Dani tribe and the mummification of corpses. Other interesting places to visit are the villages of Moai, Pikhe, Akima, Sinakma and Honelama, and the Salt Lake. Biak Island Biak, Irian Jaya's gateway and the capital of Biak Numfor regency, is a town built on rocky soil. It has a large Indonesian naval base, with an infrastructure that is better than in most other places in the province. Japanese caves are found near Ambroben. There are some good beaches on Biak Island, the most popular of which are Bosnik on the east coast, good for swimming and skin-diving: Papare to the west of Biak and Korem on the north coast, where one can watch young men dive for pearls. Supiori Island, just north of Biak, has a recreation forest and villages where visitors are welcome. Isnobabi Island has beautiful beaches. Its sea gardens and beaches scored a high 35 when evaluated by experts for internationally accepted standards in rating coral reefs. Padaido and Rani islands, near Biak, received a rating of 34. Biak has sea links with Jayapura and an international airport. Cape Kasuari Named after the big casuarina trees which grow in the area, Cape Kasuari is just 2 km. from the town of Sorong, on the Bird's Head peninsula of northern Irian Jaya. This beach has beautiful scenery and recreation facilities. People from Jayapura come here to swim across the calm Kasuari Strait. Fakfak This regency stretches from west to east, bordering on the Merauke regency. Fakfak is also the name of the capital of this regency. The Fakfak River flows through town and there is a sea garden at Ega Island. There are nutmeg plantations, timber industries and fishing villages. The region is rocky and has many beautiful beaches such as Kaimana. Timika is a newly developed town to support the Freeport copper mine at Tembagapura, in the hinterland. To the north are the snow capped peaks of the Jayawijaya Mountains. Jayapura Jayapura, in the northern coastal region, is the capital of Irian Jaya and is a convenient point of departure for trips around the province. It is a neat and pleasant city. From a hill called Skyline, behind the city, one gets a beautiful view of Jayapura, Yotefa and Humboldt bays and the Lake Sentani area. General Douglas McArthur's World War II quarters still stand here. The Museum Jayapura is located inside the Cenderawasih University campus. Tanjung Ria Beach, known as Base-G by the Allies during World War II, is a popular holiday resort with facilities for accommodation and water sports. Jayapura is easy to reach from anywhere in Indonesia, either by air or by sea. Jayawijaya Mountains The Jayawijaya Mountain range lies in the middle of Irian Jaya, in the Jayawijiya regency. The highest peaks are Trikora, Jaya, Yamin and Mandala. The tribes of the Dani, Yali, Ndunga and Ngalum live in this region. The Jaya Peak, at 5,500 meters, is the highest in Irian Jaya, and is always covered with snow. It takes between 10 and 20 days to reach this peak. The Castensz Pyramid is the montain's sheer northern wall. Below is the steep New Zealand Pass, the most dangerous and most feared by climbers. Close to the top of this mountain range, is Orange Valley, at a height of 4,150 meters. There is a small lake with clear water, and three others with orange- coloured water. There is also an open plain which can be used as a camping ground. Kemiri Waterfall Located 37 km from Jayapura, at the foot of the Cyclops Mountains, it is very popular for recreation and bathing. Its waters contain minerals which are said to be good for the body. Lake Sentani This is a very beautiful lake, 36 km from Jayapura. Asei Island and other small islands lie in the middle of the lake. Among them is a native settlement where one can observe local traditions as they are practiced by the people. Several villages along the lake can be visited by canoe. Manokwari Manokwari is the capital of the Manokwari regency. Manokwari, an attractive coastal town, is known for its fresh fruits and good recreation beaches. Many timber industries are found in the surrounding areas. The Manokwari Nature Reserve is easily reached by car. Andai is a site of cultural interest in this area. Amban is a highland agricultural area surrounded by forests, where there is also an archeological site. Lake Anggi offers dramatic and beautiful scenery and is surrounded by virgin forests. Mansinam Island, near Manokwari, is an attractive cultural tourism area. The sea water here is clear and blue, and corals and fish are abundant. Merauke The town of Merauke is very well known. It is also the capital of the Merauke regency. It is located on the south coast, near the southernmost point of Irian Jaya, at the mouth of the Merauke River. The forests in the surrounding areas are home to crocodiles, kuskus, birds of paradise, cassowary, wild ducks, black cockatoos, white cockatoos and deer. There is a nature reserve near the town of Merauke, as well as hot water springs. Kiman Island, near Merauke, is inhabited by the Kiman tribe. The forests on this island are home to wild boar and are popular among hunters. Misool Island This island lies to the southwest of the Bird's Head, about 125 miles from Sorong. The south cost of this island is very impressive. Huge slabs of stone line the beaches. The surf sometimes breaks violently on them. People often come here to relax and enjoy the views. A tourist park at the fringe of the jungle, 13 km from Sorong, can be reached by car. From here, one can visit the protected wildlife reserve that adjoins it. Paniai The natural environment of this regency is very beautiful, stretching from Cendrawasih Bay to the Jayawijaya Mountains. Nabire, on Cendrawasih Bay, is the capital. Moor and Mamboor islands, on the bay, have lovely scenery and can be reached by boat. Wisata Buru Nabire is a hunting park near Nabire, inhabited by various species of wild animals. Anggrameos Island has beautiful beaches and can be reached by ferry from Nabire. Sorong Sorong is the capital of the Sorong regency and lies on the west coast of Irian Jaya. It surrounded by a number islands, such as Waigeo, Salawati, Misool, Raja Ampat and Jefman. These islands have very beautiful beaches. Wamena Wamena, the capital of the Jayawijaya is a regency, is located at the center of Irian Jaya, about 225 km from Jayapura. This is a very pleasant town, with peaceful and tranquil surroundings. Wamena has a very cool climate, as it lies below the snow capped mountains. The highlands are spectacular, perhaps the most beautiful in Irian Jaya. Various tribal cultures can be found here. Wissel Lakes The Wissel Lakes comprise three lakes around the town of Enarotali, 90 km from Nabire. Lake Tigi has a small promontory that justs out into the lake. There is a stone bearing the imprint of a human being, dots, tadpoles and plants. Some people believe they illustrate the ancient notion of how the world came into being. Lake Tege is near Lake Tigi, close to the the town of Eupoto, where they train horses. There are also plantations and cattle breeding farms. Lake Paniai is surrounded by hills. The Ekagi people live around Lake Paniai. They have their own currency of leather pieces called 'bia'. The Ekagi belong to the tribes that have experienced the greatest progress. Yapen Waropen This regency covers a small part of the northern coastal area of Cendrawasih Bay. Serui, the capital, is located on Yapen Waropen Island and can be reached by plane from various points. Shopping Carvings and plait work. See the archipelaGo listings for more information.

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